How-To Guide: Highlighting & Contouring

Hi guys! Its been a while but I’m back! This post is one that I know that many of you have been waiting on, my step by step guide on how I highlight & contour. So, if you need help with highlighting & contouring then keep reading!


What is highlighting + contouring?

Before diving into everything I want to explain some key concepts that go along with this topic.

In the simplest of terms, highlighting & contouring are what we do to add light and dark areas to the skin to sculpt the face in a way we find most pleasing or ideal. For example, I have a crooked nose bridge so I contour my nose to give the illusion that it is straighter than it actually is & at the same time appear a little bit smaller.

Highlighting is what we do when we want to bring attention to or bring forward certain areas on the face while contouring we use to create shadows to create the illusion that we have more defined features such as; the appearance of higher cheekbones, a smaller forehead, a slimmer nose & hides the appearance of that dreaded double-chin many of us have.


 Highlighting

To begin you should have your base makeup (foundation & brows) already done, if you’d like some help with those, check out my Foundation Application Guide & Eyebrow Filling Guide first then come back here to continue!

First, you need choose the shade of concealer thats right for you. To brighten up the under-eye area you typically need a concealer lighter than your skin tone. For everyday more simple makeup looks I suggest 1-2 shades lighter than your skin tone and for more dramatic/night time makeup looks I tend to go 3 shades lighter.

For this demo I’m going to use the LA Girl HD Pro Concealer, I have been using this one for YEARS! Definitely a holy grail product that I will continue to repurchase. It’s heavy duty & cheap! I use the shade Fawn to highlight & conceal under my eyes.

Some other products that I use worthy of honorable mention are;

In short you’ll need;

  1. Concealer 1-3 shades lighter than your skin tone (based on preference).
  2. Small Concealer brush. (I don’t need one here because the LA Girl Concealer has a brush tip)
  3. Blending sponge. – Real Techniques Sponge (I used a beauty blender in the pictures but it was destroyed by my puppy shortly after 🙃.. soo this sponge is just as good.)
  4. Setting Powder – Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder
  5. Brush To Apply Setting Powder (I’m using my Morphe M438, you may also use your sponge for application)

Okay so now we have all our tools lets begin,

Step 1 – Apply Concealer

  • Apply the concealer to under your eyes, not too close to the lower lash line to avoid the concealer getting into & settling in any possible fine lines you may have.
  • Bring the concealer under your eyes onto the sides of your nose (this helps give the illusion of a thinner nose)
  • Place concealer down the bridge of your nose as well as on the centre of your forehead (lower half).

highlighting and contouring

 

STEP 2 – Blend

  • Using your sponge blend the concealer into your foundation, carrying the concealer under your eyes lightly to achieve the colour & coverage while still avoiding product building up in the lines under your eyes.

 

step 3 – Apply Settling Powder

  • Using my Morphe M438  brush I apply my Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder on the areas I highlighted with concealer to keep it in place & prevent creasing.


 Contouring

Now for contouring you will need a cream or powder product (or both) 2-3 shades darker than your skin tone depending in how dramatic a contour you wish to achieve. This product also needs to be free of shimmer and have the same undertone as your skin. I have a  very warm/golden undertone so all my products tend to be on the warm side. If I use something cool toned, especially for contouring, it will look ashy or chalky on my skin.

That being said make sure not to get anything that doesn’t align with your particular undertone to avoid a “muddy” looking contour.

For this guide I’m going to use both a cream & powder product since thats typically how I contour. For the cream I’m going to use another LA Girl HD Pro Concealer, this time in the shade -Dark Cocoa & for my powder I’ll use my Guerlain Terracotta Bronzer 07.

Some other products that I use worthy of honorable mention are;

In short you’ll need;

  1. Cream/Powder contouring product 2-3 shades darker than your skin tone.
  2. Contour brushes – Using MAC 138  & ELF Contour Brush)
  3. Blending sponge.
  4. Blush
  5. Blush Brush – Using Coastal Scents Angled Blush Brush)

 

Step 1 – Apply Cream Contour

  • Apply the cream contour product below your cheekbones, around the perimeter of your forehead, just below your jawline & down the sides of your nose between the highlighted areas of the bridge & sides of your nose.

highlighting and contouringhighlighting and contouring

 

STEP 2 -Blend

  • Brush away translucent powder with a clean powder brush.
  • Using your beauty sponge again, blend the contour cream into your foundation until the harsh contour lines become less obvious.

highlighting and contouringhighlighting and contouring

highlighting and contouring

highlighting and contouring

 

STEP 5 – Powder Contour – CHeek Bones

  • To make my contour less harsh & to set it I also use a powder contour, in this case my Guerlain  Terracotta Bronzer, with my MAC138 brush to blend out the cream contour further.

highlighting and contouring

 

STEP 6 – Powder Contour – Nose

  • Again, to reduce the harshness of my contour I use the powder on my nose with my small contour brush.

highlighting and contouring

 

STEP 7 Blush

  • Apply blush of your choice to your cheeks. I’m using nt MAC Breezy.

highlighting and contouringhighlighting and contouring


 Get Rid Of That Cake-Face!

Now that we’re done highlighting and contouring I know everything is looking a bit cakey with all these products layered on so at this point in my routine is where I pretty much bathe in my MAC Fix+ to get all the products to melt into each other.

MAC Fix Plus


 Set Everything With powder

After my  Fix+ spray dries I use my Black Opal Deluxe Setting Powder & a large powder brush to blend everything together before applying powder highlight.

highlight & contour


 Powder highlight

It’s time to glow! Now you apply your highlighter of choice to your nose, inner eyes & cheek bones.

Using;

  1. Anastasia Beverly Hills Illuminating Powder in Riviera
  2. Morphe M310
  3. Pencil Eyeshadow Brush

Step 1

  •  For your nose you can use a small powder brush or your fingers to apply highlight down the bridge of your nose.

Step 2

  •  Next, use a pencil brush to highlight your inner eye area.

Step 3

I typically don’t highlight my cheekbones because I tend to have texture on my skin in that area but for the sake of this tutorial, here we go.

  • Using a fan brush gently sweep the highlight at the highest points of your cheekbones.


Setting Spray

Need I say more? Setting your makeup helps to avoid cake-face, oiliness & melting. If you’re an oily girl like myself, this Boscia White Charcoal Setting Spray is AMAZING! You need it, I promise. I use my setting spray after finishing up my look with some lashes & lipstick.

And thats it! I know it seems like a lot but once you find your groove & your own routine it becomes second nature to do all this. It takes patience & practice so don’t expect to be a professional over night. Looking back at pictures from even as recent as 2 years ago my contouring makes me cringe because it has come such a long way since I first started 😂.

Heres the before and after pictures to show you what a huge difference these steps make to my face. Hopefully the post was simple enough & helpful to anyone who wants to learn. 🙂

If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask me in the comments below.


Before & After

highlighting and contouring

 

Until next time my loves,

xo Justine-Renee

Don’t forget to like the post, comment, share & subscribe below! 

Follow me on Instagram for more pictures & updates!

@justinerenee.jarrett

 

How-To Guide: Filling Your Eyebrows

Hey guys! Todays post is the beginning of my “How-To Guide” series, how exciting! I have decided to start a how-to guide for makeup because I realize a lot of people who follow this blog are beginners & want to learn how to get their makeup looking perfect. By no means is my makeup always perfect but we can get there together. As you can already see this first guide is all about eyebrows!

Eyebrows, to me, can honestly make or break your face. They are some of the first things people see when they look at you. Generally, once in conversation you’re supposed to be making eye-contact & well, your eyebrows are right above those eyes of yours aren’t they? Before mastering anything else I think filling your eyebrows is key. Even without wearing a full face of makeup, if you have sparse brows lightly filling them definitely makes a difference.

eyebrow-routine-3

Grooming

To begin, always keep your eyebrows well groomed. Everyone has their preferences on how to groom but whether you pluck, thread, wax or otherwise, keep them looking neat at all times. I personally like to have mine threaded because it gives them a better shape than anything else.

My brows are also microbladed which is a form of tattooing however with microblading, pigment is implanted under your skin with a manual handheld tool instead of a machine. Hairlike strokes are drawn with the tool to mimic the natural hairs in each eyebrow. The pigment is not as deep as a regular tattoo therefore this is a semi-permanent solution to thin or uneven brows. Depending on your skin & lifestyle it can last up to 2 years but because of some slight fading over time most people touch up after about a year to keep their eyebrows looking their best.

Both my threading and microblading are done by Sherene of Amiri Beauty.

These are my unfilled brows pictured below.

natural-eyebrows

 

Filling

Now we get into the good stuff! Even with microbladed eyebrows I definitely still do my eyebrows when I put on my makeup. It is just absolutely essential to me to give the eyebrows that extra pop. When I’m not wearing a full face of makeup & go almost bare faced (i.e. spot on concealer & some powder) I don’t tend to fill my eyebrows since the microblading makes them look naturally full & perfectly shaped.eyebrow-routine-2

There are so many products to choose from to fill your eyebrows & it really comes down to what works best for you. There are pencils,powders, pomades/waxes & even markers. I use each of these types of products for different reasons but my favorites are definitely eyebrow pencils & pomades. If you are a beginner I recommend first getting into eyebrow pencils.

Pencils allow for you to have good control of the product & increase or decrease intensity pretty easily. Most pencils come with a spoolie on one end that allows you to brush the product through your brows for even distribution. With pomades you have to be much more carful & use a light hand to avoid having your brows look too intense.

My eyebrows are the first step in my makeup routine because for me when I do my brows after foundation I find that the product slips & slides all over the place so its just easier for me this way. It also gives my primer some time to settle onto my skin before I apply foundation.

I’m going to show you how I use an eyebrow pencil on one brow & a brow pomade on the other.

Lets get right to it now shall we!

I’m going to be using the products below;

eyebrow-products

 

 

Prepping your eyebrows
  1. Brush brows into their shape.
  2. Measure your inner brow by resting your brow pencil on the side of your nostril  diagonally following the shape of your nose. This is the point at which your eyebrow should begin.
  3. Measure the end of your brow by resting your pencil on the outside corner of your nostril diagonally, extending to the outside crease of your eye.

eyebrow-measuring

 

Using a Pencil

I am using a Milani eyebrow pencil in the shade dark brown.

  1. Outline below your brows with your pencil.
  2. Outline above your brows starting about 1/4 of the way into your brow. Avoiding the inner brow area. You definitely don’t want the inner brow to be too dark or too defined.
  3. Use the spoolie to blend the product into your brows.
  4. Use the pencil to fill any areas of the brow that remain sparse & continue to blend.

(If you need to, based on where your inner brow should start, use the pencil to lightly create thin, hairlike strokes in the inner brow area.)

milani-eyebrow-pencil

 

Using a pomade

Using my Anastasia Beverly Hills Dip Brow Pomade in the shade Chocolate & an angled brush.

  1. Lightly dip the brush into the pomade and outline below your brows.
  2. Without applying more product to the brush, outline above your brows starting about 1/4 of the way into your brow from the inner corner.
  3. Use the spoolie to blend the product into your brows.

Because of the consistency of a pomade this should give enough spreading to prevent having any sparse areas. You definitely do not want to add too much product because the colour intensifies very quickly.

(If you need to, based on where your inner brow should start, use the brush to lightly create hairlike strokes in the inner brow area.)

anastasia-dip-brow

After filling your brows with either method above you can do 1 of 2 things;

  • Set the brows with a clear mascara or brow gel to finish if you want the brows to be filled but still appear natural.

OR

  • More precisely shape & define the brows with a concealer. For a natural but crisp look you can use a concealer that  matches your skin tone or for the more glamorous “eyebrows on fleek” look you can use a concealer 1-2 shades lighter than your skin tone (based on preference) & follow the steps below.

For concealer I am using my Coastal Scents Camouflage Concealer Palette in the shade highlighted in the picture below.

 

coastal-scents-concealer-palette

Defining The Eyebrows
  1. Carefully use an angled brush to outline below & above the eyebrows with the concealer.
  2. Blend the concealer lining the bottom of the brow downwards onto the brow bone area using the same angled brush.
  3. Blend the concealer at the top of the brow upwards.
  4. Use a brow gel or clear mascara to set the brows in place.

eyebrow-concealing

 

After you finish defining your eyebrows you’re well on your way to finishing your face because brows can take quite a bit of time to perfect. I honestly spend most of my makeup application time doing my eyebrows, no joke.

Keep practicing until you get them exactly how you want them & modify the steps as you see fit to meet your brow expectations.

I really hope this little guide has been helpful to those of you who needed it! I love trying new brow products so let me know what products you use to fill your brows in the comments below.

 

Until next time,

xo Justine-Renee

Don’t forget to like the post, comment, share & subscribe below! 

Follow me on Instagram for more pictures & updates!

@justinerenee.jarrett

eyebrow-routine-4